I’m seeing better tolerance when I start clients at 0.3% micro-encapsulated retinol 2–3 nights a week and buffer with a ceramide-rich balm — less purge, visible smoothness by week 3. If you’ve tried sandwiching or alternating with azelaic acid, have you found a sweet spot for sensitive, Fitzpatrick III–IV skin?
I’ve had fewer flares in III–IV by running 0.3% micro‑encapsulated retinol as a 45–60 min “short-contact” for the first two weeks, then overnight, and moving azelaic 10% to AM on off days instead of stacking at night. Buffer with a ceramide balm after removal (and a thin layer before) works like training wheels and seems to keep PIH down; curious if you’ve tried this split schedule over nightly “sandwiching”?
Getting the same ‘week 3’ smoothness by running 0.3% micro‑encapsulated on a 2‑on/1‑off rhythm, pea‑size on bone‑dry skin, then ceramide balm after (not before) so uptake stays consistent. Azelaic 15% only on the off night or AM keeps tone steady without stacking irritation. Have you tried moving the buffer to post‑retinol and reserving azelaic for off nights?
But @kirstyM73 I see fewer purges in III–IV by “zoning”: 0.3% only on cheeks/forehead for 10–14 nights and ‘masking off’ alar grooves, mouth corners, and under‑eyes with a thin film of petrolatum (like taping trim before painting). Run azelaic 15% on off nights or AM and use a tinted mineral SPF to blunt PIH — worth a try?